James Franco and the Bold Crossings of the Gender Line
From left: James Franco, Marc Jacobs and the model Lea T (in feathers, right) legitimized cross-dressing.
By WILLIAM VAN METER
IT’S certainly a statement on our times that, in the same month,
James Franco graces the covers of GQ and Candy. In GQ, he
appears in a moody head shot. In Candy, a style magazine
dedicated to what it calls the “transversal” — that is,
transsexuality, transvestism, cross-dressing, androgyny and any
combination thereof — Mr. Franco, shot by Terry Richardson,
vamps in trowel-applied makeup, heavy jewelry and a woman’s
dominatrix-style power suit.
Candy, it turns out, is but one of the
more visible bits of evidence that 2010
will be remembered as the year of the
transsexual. Yes, Mr. Franco is just
dressing up and doesn’t feel he was
born the wrong sex. But it is a grand
gesture of solidarity with gender
nonconformists and certainly hasn’t
affected attendance at “127 Hours.”
Other celebrities have flirted with “the other side,” cross-dressing for
fashion publications. On the cover of the current Industrie, Marc Jacobs
is decked out in one of his signature women’s designs
(albeit with a beard). Japanese Vogue Hommes revealed its new
male model, Jo Calderone, who was, in actuality, Lady Gaga.
fashion publications. On the cover of the current Industrie, Marc Jacobs
is decked out in one of his signature women’s designs
(albeit with a beard). Japanese Vogue Hommes revealed its new
male model, Jo Calderone, who was, in actuality, Lady Gaga.
Not since the glam era of the 1970s has gender-bending so saturated the
news media. The difference now is that mystery has been replaced
with empowerment, even pride. Consider a few happenings that have
blipped recently on our radar. The blog of a young mother whose 5-year
-old son had dressed like Daphne on “Scooby-Doo” for Halloween went
viral, initiating a nationwide discussion on the fluidity of gender.
(The mother ended up on “Today.”) The performance artist Kalup
Linzy became a downtown phenomenon in Manhattan for his gender-
bending portrayals of soap-opera divas. Oprah Winfrey welcomed
transsexual men to her program.
news media. The difference now is that mystery has been replaced
with empowerment, even pride. Consider a few happenings that have
blipped recently on our radar. The blog of a young mother whose 5-year
-old son had dressed like Daphne on “Scooby-Doo” for Halloween went
viral, initiating a nationwide discussion on the fluidity of gender.
(The mother ended up on “Today.”) The performance artist Kalup
Linzy became a downtown phenomenon in Manhattan for his gender-
bending portrayals of soap-opera divas. Oprah Winfrey welcomed
transsexual men to her program.
In November, a transgender student pledged a sorority at Trinity
University in Texas. Original Plumbing, a zine for trans-guys, came out
with a fashion issue.
University in Texas. Original Plumbing, a zine for trans-guys, came out
with a fashion issue.
This month, Simon & Schuster will publish “My Princess Boy,”
a children’s book about a boy who wears pink gowns. “It’s not acceptable
for us to sit back when children are taking their lives because they’re not
accepted for who they are,” said the author, Cheryl Kilodavis, who based
the book on her 4-year-old son.
a children’s book about a boy who wears pink gowns. “It’s not acceptable
for us to sit back when children are taking their lives because they’re not
accepted for who they are,” said the author, Cheryl Kilodavis, who based
the book on her 4-year-old son.
The only thing that would have raised more awareness of trans people
would have been a link with the president — even better, a link that rhymed.
That’s when the “tranny nanny,”Barack Obama’s transvestite nanny
from his boyhood in Jakarta, Indonesia, was discovered and made
headlines. “Trans people are slowly becoming a common part of popular
culture,” said Paisley Currah, a political science professor at Brooklyn
College who specializes in transgender rights and is the author of
“United States of Gender,” which will be published next year.
would have been a link with the president — even better, a link that rhymed.
That’s when the “tranny nanny,”Barack Obama’s transvestite nanny
from his boyhood in Jakarta, Indonesia, was discovered and made
headlines. “Trans people are slowly becoming a common part of popular
culture,” said Paisley Currah, a political science professor at Brooklyn
College who specializes in transgender rights and is the author of
“United States of Gender,” which will be published next year.
“Sixty years ago, The New York Daily News used its whole front page to
talk about Christine Jorgensen’s sex change operation — ‘Ex-GI Becomes
Blonde Beauty,’ ” Mr. Currah said. “Now you have transgender models and
mayors. They elicit interest, but it’s not some incredulous response.
The public is much more aware of the possibilities of transgender
people existing and taking part as leaders in the social and cultural life.”
talk about Christine Jorgensen’s sex change operation — ‘Ex-GI Becomes
Blonde Beauty,’ ” Mr. Currah said. “Now you have transgender models and
mayors. They elicit interest, but it’s not some incredulous response.
The public is much more aware of the possibilities of transgender
people existing and taking part as leaders in the social and cultural life.”
And so they are. “There are always going to be people who don’t fit
into boxes,” said Victoria Kolakowski, who was just elected a superior
court judge in Alameda County in California. “What we consider
to be normal is evolving and changing. That frightens many people,
but it’s the nature of our times.” When Ms. Kolakowski takes the bench
in January, she will be the nation’s first transgender trial judge.
into boxes,” said Victoria Kolakowski, who was just elected a superior
court judge in Alameda County in California. “What we consider
to be normal is evolving and changing. That frightens many people,
but it’s the nature of our times.” When Ms. Kolakowski takes the bench
in January, she will be the nation’s first transgender trial judge.
Moonlighting fashionistas dabbling in cross-dressing have surely
helped advance the transsexual image, but the real strides in 2010
were made by actual transsexuals and those who define themselves
on a spectrum of gender rather than simply male or female.
The clearest call to arms was the arrival of the transsexual
model Lea T.
helped advance the transsexual image, but the real strides in 2010
were made by actual transsexuals and those who define themselves
on a spectrum of gender rather than simply male or female.
The clearest call to arms was the arrival of the transsexual
model Lea T.
For Givenchy’s fall advertising campaign, Ms. T. was photographed
by Mert and Marcus in a feathery blouson. When the ad was released
in May, it set off a press frenzy, with Ms. T.’s modeling agency, Women,
receiving more than 400 interview requests.
by Mert and Marcus in a feathery blouson. When the ad was released
in May, it set off a press frenzy, with Ms. T.’s modeling agency, Women,
receiving more than 400 interview requests.
Ms. T., 28, has been a friend of the Givenchy creative director Riccardo
Tisci, since she was 17. (The “T” stands for Tisci; he unofficially adopted
her into his family.) She worked for the fashion house in various
positions and as a fit model. It was Mr. Tisci’s idea to have her in
the campaign.
Tisci, since she was 17. (The “T” stands for Tisci; he unofficially adopted
her into his family.) She worked for the fashion house in various
positions and as a fit model. It was Mr. Tisci’s idea to have her in
the campaign.
“He saw that my transitioning process was hard, how prejudiced people
are and how I was suffering,” Ms. T. said. “He wanted to make me happy
to have a nice picture of me.”
are and how I was suffering,” Ms. T. said. “He wanted to make me happy
to have a nice picture of me.”
Ms. T. wasn’t outed by the news media. In fact, it was a condition of her
agreeing to do the ad that Mr. Tisci mention in interviews that she
was transgender.
agreeing to do the ad that Mr. Tisci mention in interviews that she
was transgender.
“When you are a transsexual, you look for your future, and you can’t
see it,” Ms. T. said. “I thought this would be a nice message for another
tranny: ‘Look, we can be the same as other girls and boys.’ It’s small,
but it makes you feel like you have a little chance. Maybe a transsexual
will open a magazine and think: ‘That’s cool. We can be whatever we
want.’ That’s why I did the Givenchy campaign.”
see it,” Ms. T. said. “I thought this would be a nice message for another
tranny: ‘Look, we can be the same as other girls and boys.’ It’s small,
but it makes you feel like you have a little chance. Maybe a transsexual
will open a magazine and think: ‘That’s cool. We can be whatever we
want.’ That’s why I did the Givenchy campaign.”
Since the Givenchy ad, Ms. T. has become a popular editorial model,
appearing twice in Vogue Paris. In 2011, she will be a guest on Oprah
Winfrey’s show in its final season
nytimes.com
appearing twice in Vogue Paris. In 2011, she will be a guest on Oprah
Winfrey’s show in its final season
nytimes.com
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